Ten days in the United States, Chicago (for professional reasons) and then in New York (for the kif), allowed me to come back with a few scraps of finer understanding of American Jewry. Make some surprising discoveries, confirmed some a priori, while flying in the face of other beliefs. Obviously, everything that follows is often subjective and open to debate.
Chicago
Before my aircraft landed on the runways at Chicago O'Hare, I got a rattrapge film in good and due form with the VOD system of the aircraft. And put me in the leg on American Jewry, I chose to be accompanied by the Coen brothers and their last film "A Serious Man" . I will try to do a review later, but one thing is sure, he thought a lot about the question: Does Judaism was transformed by the massive transplantation of Jews from Eastern Europe Eastern lands New World? Obviously, the answer not fail to be positive, but to try to understand it better, we must plunge. Nevermind week job to go directly to the need to spend Shabbat in Chicago.
Above all, do not repeat the mistakes already made in 2003 to spend a Shabbat in a large hotel in the Loop, historical and tourist center of Chicago. AC, I have already given a few years ago: through Priceline (if you do not know, I recommend this site to find a great hotel bargain prices to a few days of your trip), the Palmer House Hilton Chicago for less than $ 70 night. Eat kosher? Just ask at reception that you order kosher plates (of course duly charged), which will take you if you do not know anyone nearby or if you do not get to the nearest Chabad .
Then things get complicated. Imagine that on Saturday morning, you want to go to the nearest synagogue. You say very candidly "I'm right in the center, the synagogue is not what will be missed, especially in the 3rd American Jewish city with nearly 300,000 Jews! ". Well this is not so simple. First, you must be well known to the fragmentation of American Judaism. If you do not want to appear in the Assembly Reconstructionist Hebrew Gays and Lesbians, or worse (because at least they assume a particular identity) among the hippies in mixing guitar, Gospel, proclamations of love worthy of Eddie Murphy and conviction to represent the future of Judaism, we will have to mobilize your detective skills to find a Schule consistent with the idea that you get to the Halacha. After the initial surprise of not finding myself with myriads oratories in the Loop, I finally found next to the hotel, the "Chicago Loop Synagogue " on South Clark Street. A very beautiful architectural point of view, on several levels, with the names of major donors clearly shown, one senses America with its relaxed compared vis-à-vis Judaism and its money well integrated and longstanding in American society. Following is more surprising in this room of hundreds of places, we do find that 30 or 40 people for to the office! The reason (I suspect that for some time now)? Jews working in the Loop, but do not live there. The synagogue is very active on weekdays, but very little traffic on Shabbat. Only a sweet kiddush after the service that does not have me satisfied and I'm back at the hotel early in the afternoon ... luckily the city is beautiful and you can enjoy beautiful walks, especially summer!
Back to 2010: this time, no errors. Call a friend I had not seen for over 10 years but lived Chicago and confirms me : "Jews live in two main areas: West Rogers Park which is still in Chicago and Skokie, which is a town outside of Chicago." The reason is obvious: when you start a family, we will search for schools, the areas most consistent and specific infrastructure that is not offered by the center, rather focus on business and tourism. Go then to West Rogers Park. The cityscape is completely different: one is more on Desperate Housewives with residential houses that are not more than 2 storeys along street grid, as in "Mad Men" with its skyscrapers and bustle.
Problem: there are no hotels. My friend then gave me something: the Jewish retirement home in West Rogers Park provides rooms for travelers. For $ 75 a night, it's worth it. Especially when we have the opportunity to admire the quality of the nursing home: a big, clean, lively atmosphere in a Jewish (kosher meals, offices, courts, etc ...) and welcoming to tourists ...
Friday night arrives, looking for an office! It is in the Loop is obvious: dozens of schule of all persuasions succeed on the Internet: Reformed, Conservative, Orthodox, Lubavitch, Sephardic (with even a Moroccan community!) a few blocks of each other. I choose KINS who seems to be a major Orthodox communities in the area, midway between my "hotel" and my friend whom I'll have dinner. Not much to say except that the building is imposing and well integrated into the neighborhood. The rabbi is casual, with a white Panama on his head and a light suit. We go out there and surprise people wear! It is indeed a Eruv in West Rogers Park (the Eruv is a method to circumvent the ban on wearing one in public domain on the Sabbath. Including the ability to go out in a stroller, something prohibited without Eruv). Halakhic, the subject is controversial, I actually bought in New York a little monograph on the subject very well done which I will try to do a little review. Still, the question arises: can we really count on an Eruv perimeter as large as West Rogers Park and with a sufficient degree of reliability? On the other hand, why not see an Eruv is radically changing the perception that Jews (and families) have Shabbat, when at last it is possible to go out and make friendly visits or even family with young children?
Friday night meal with my friends (whom I thank again warmly welcomed and guided me in this trip) and very interesting exchanges on the lives of young French full transplanted Chicago. Regrets first on the poverty of the offer "intellectual" approach to Judaism in France. Difficulties in finding places and teachers able to convey an authentic Judaism but also intellectually demanding than in effect at the graduate level profane. It is true that from this point of view, the United States several steps ahead and that if France was a pioneer in the '70s with Levinas, Neher or Manitou is now a bit behind. Most followers of Manitou (who had managed to address the problem of articulation between Jewish thought and authentic materials and especially metaphysical imperatives of the modern world) are now in Israel, and Levinas has left few students able to mobilize both resources philosophical level and a strong commitment to the texts of the tradition Jewish (Benny Levy is one but also aired his teaching in Israel). Finding nevertheless there are still some hidden gems as well the Yeshiva Student of Rav Zyzek in Paris or that of Rabbi Eliyahu Abitbol Strasbourg or more publicized in a completely different style, as the initiatives taken by Rabbi Elie Lemmel through its association Lev.
A simple matching United States between work life and demands a halachic Jew. During my one-week training in Chicago, no problem to receive kosher meals provided courtesy of the Learning Center even keep his kippa including in the workplace (I personally did not, forcing French culture, but I saw an American custody without problem, as do Sikhs with their impressive turban). But beware, all is not rosy either: there are still difficulties, of course, primarily related to Shabbat observance in the winter. And make no mistake, it is easier to negotiate some arrangements discrete jobs in high-level positions in more standardized. In fact, if we give a rational reason to the fact that Jews are choosing more frequently than the rest of people a career in Entrepeneurship and the professions, it is certainly for flexibility in the schedule that these jobs provide, essential to a harmonious balance between work and religious beliefs.
The next day my friend was asked by a Chabad couple who very kindly agreed to receive me well. Branch Office Lubavitch therefore, beginning as of course after 9.30am (this does not change) and very pleasant. A valuable discovery: the Chumash published by Kol Menachem publisher. I can not tell you that without a digression on "Artscroll Revolution," as they say up there and as the post begins to be long, we'll do that in Episode 2 (promised in not too long).
Happy holidays to all!
continued ...
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